As Granny Weatherwax would say, "I ATEN'T DEAD". I'm slowly finishing up my laundry list of stuff that needs to be done, and hopefully I will have some free time around the beginning of June. (Or maybe not - one friend has invited me to go camping and another has organized a picnic. I've never had such a full social calendar.)Anyway, onto to pattern. This is McCall's 5923, view A, which is long out of print. It's an empire-waist dress, partially-bias cut, with princess seams and a back slit. View A has a front band.
The fabric is, of course, from fabric.com and is called Top o' the Morning by Allover Fabrics. It's green and black plaid, with gold accents. I acquired it during my last green and black binge. It's heavier than most fabric of this sort, which was surprising to me. It actually worked out well for this pattern, since the bias-cut pieces tend to stretch. A lighter fabric could have been distorted.
The pattern has different cup sizes: A - B, C, and D. I was a bit concerned about this, because I am actually a AA. I did some research, and it seems like the Big Four (at least) use a B cup as the standard size and that works out for me all right. I think my broad back offsets the small cup and they end up evening each other out.The cup sizes differ in the two front bodice pieces. Though the pattern pieces aren't flat, you can can sort of see the difference between the D cup (top) and the A/B cup (bottom).
So I didn't alter the pattern for the cup size; I did the usual changes to lengthen the skirt and shorten the straps.
As for the difficulty, it's princess seams with no darts, so that greatly simplifies things. The bodice is lined, and needs to be tacked down by hand because the bottom doesn't line up nicely, but that's pretty easy. The weird fabric yoga you have to do for the straps so the seams don't show is weird, but that's the nature of the beast for anything of this sort. So this would probably be good for an advanced beginner.
And finally, let's go out with Kermit:
It's so cute in plaid! And yet, View B with the lace and bow is horrible! Amazing what a difference the right fabric makes, isn't it?
ReplyDeleteBut then, I'm a sucker for plaid. Must be a holdover from all those new plaid skirts for school in the fall when I was younger. ;P
I think plaid is perfect for this dress because it shows off nicely on the bias. I think view B is lame because (as you said), the plaid is slightly reminiscent of school girl days, but the lace and bow almost make it like you're intently trying to look Loli (IMHO).
DeleteI have a nice black plaid with purple and green accents that might need to be made into this pattern.
I know what you mean, things have been crazy here, too! I have only half-finished my mock up! I have new patterns I really want to try!
ReplyDeleteI am trying desperately not to buy more patterns because (no exaggeration) I have hundreds of them. While that is working out pretty well, my attempts not to add to the fabric stash are only kind of successful.
DeleteGood luck with your mock-up. Do you have a deadline for when you need it to be done?
Luckily, no. I want to have something nice for Steamfest, maybe at least the bustle and jacket from my new pattern, which is the beginning of August. But if not I will throw something together from my wardrobe.
DeleteI do enjoy the subtle but great details that cutting partially on the bias lends to the overall garment-- it's very lovely!
ReplyDeleteI find myself crawling through my projects because more and more it is sinking in that I don't have all the adequate tools I once had so I can achieve my standards of construction lol.
I now have a list of tools to get that surpasses my project list! Never thought I'd see the day!
When I was a poor, poor grad student, I learned to make due without a lot of the essentials of sewing (and life, really). It certainly has made me appreciate them more now that I can afford them. :)
DeleteThat is a great dress. I really like the cut and the fabric is so lovely, it gives a great effect on the bias.
ReplyDeleteI still have rather large amounts of plaid in my stock, but I am so afraid of working with them, I once tried to match the pattern on a skirt, it was a complete desaster, I hardly ever wore that skirt, because I was to much of a perfectionist to wear mismatched plaid-fabric.
I love the front view of your dress, it looks absolutely perfect. But I have to admit, the back view would drive me mad, sorry. :-)
But great respect that you sew plaid, I am too cowardish, so who am I to judge ;-) And as I said, the front view is gorgeous!
I know I would go nuts trying to match plaid, so I just don't bother. It is just coincidence that the way the back pieces got laid out that it seems like I tried to match up the back and failed. It does bother me a little, but not enough to stop me from wearing the dress. Maybe if I made this again, I would insert a little piece in the back on the bias, so it wouldn't matter.
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